OEM grilles are NOT cheap ($125 or more) and this procedure involves cutting up your original (and most likely) ONLY grille. If you're going to do this mod, think it out and work slowly and carefully.
Tools & Materials
8"x24" Mesh (twice as much for two-layer)
3" Masking tape
Electrical tape (optional)
Cardboard sheet the size of the grille
Pencil, marker
Scissors
Tin Snips
Hot glue gun & glue (Epoxy would be better though)
zip ties
Phillips head screwdrivers one stubby or offset, one regular
Rotary tool w/cutting disc (preferably a fiber reinforced disc)
Pliers
Vice (optional, but helpful)
Paint
8"x24" Mesh (twice as much for two-layer)
3" Masking tape
Electrical tape (optional)
Cardboard sheet the size of the grille
Pencil, marker
Scissors
Tin Snips
Hot glue gun & glue (Epoxy would be better though)
zip ties
Phillips head screwdrivers one stubby or offset, one regular
Rotary tool w/cutting disc (preferably a fiber reinforced disc)
Pliers
Vice (optional, but helpful)
Paint
The Project:
1. Raise the hood and remove the 10 plastic screws and retainers that hold the plastic flashing around the hood latch.
2. Remove the 5 screws (2 on each side, one bottom middle) that hold the grille on the bumper. This is where you need the stubby (or offset) phillips screwdriver!
3. Take some time and think this part out -- Cut the center out of the grille. The top portion should be trimmed flat and resemble a thin band that connects the sides.
4. Draw your trim line around the grille frame and cut.
5. Smooth down all edges and snap off all melted plastic bits.
6. Place the cardboard in the opening and notice that the upper part of the frame is curved - trim the top edge of the cardboard to match the curve. Trace the inner edges onto it with your pencil/marker. Make another line around that with about 2" between them. Cut out the larger area.
7. Check your mesh and orient it how you want it on the car, then cover it with masking tape, overlapping the edges. (This will protect it some and give you something to draw on.)
8. Trace your cardboard template onto the taped mesh, then cut out the mesh.
9. In the picture below, the top edge of the mesh is bent backwards, and the rest is bent forward. Using your vice (or pliers) bend the top part of the mesh back until it fits the curve of the grille frame nicely.
10. Push the taped mesh into the frame as best it will and trace the inner edge of the frame onto the tape.
11. Trim to about 1.5" of that line.
12. Put the mesh back in the frame and locate where the lower screw plugs are. Mark the tape and cut out those areas to leave as much mesh around them as you can. You will then basically have several tabs around your interior line.
13. Bend the lower 'tabs' out so that they will fit in the pocket of the lower grille frame. If they're too long (should be) trim and re-fit them until you get a nice fit from top to bottom
14. Repeat steps 12 and 13 for the sides.
15. Once you like how things fit in the frame, remove the tape from the mesh and re-fit it in the frame using zip ties to secure it and close all gaps.
16. Use a screwdriver to push down the mesh into the pockets and then hot glue as many sections as you want.
17. Remove the zip ties once the glue has hardened, clean up any glue strings and test fit on the car. There is a notch on top of the frame where the flashing fits in for the hood latch - if you have any mesh in there you'll need to trim it out.
18. At this point you can decide if you want to add a second layer of mesh (so you don't see so much of the radiator, etc). You can do that easily by using the cardboard template you made earlier and simply attaching that new panel to the back of the first layer. (I used two different types/brands of mesh, which provided good coverage and an interesting moire effect-see pic - but painting the rear layer the effect is lessened.).
19. If you want - paint it.
20. Attach any logos you want, mount it on the car, replace the flashing, stand back and admire your work!